Oil pans – removal and installation

Removal

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (see Engine electrical systems).

2. Raise the front of the vehicle and sup­port it securely on jackstands. Apply the park­ing brake and block the rear wheels to keep it from rolling off the stands.

3. Drain the engine oil (see Tune-up and routine maintenance).

4. Remove the lower splash shield fasteners and skid plate fasteners, if equipped.

Lower oil pan

5. Remove the bolts and nuts around the perimeter of the pan, then carefully sepa­rate the lower oil pan from the upper oil pan. Don’t pry between the upper pan and the lower pan or damage to the sealing surfaces could occur and oil leaks may develop. Tap the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal. If it still sticks, slip a putty knife between the upper pan and lower pan to break the bond (but be careful not to scratch the surfaces).

Upper oil pan

6. Remove the power steering gear (see Suspension and steering systems).

7. Remove the dipstick tube bracket mounting bolt. Using a twisting motion, pull the dip­stick tube out of the upper oil pan.

8. Remove the lower oil pan (see Step 5).

9. Remove the coolant tube-to-upper pan fastener and move the tube back.

10. If you’re working on the 4WD models:

Note: The front differential assembly and CV joints do not have to be completely removed from the vehicle.

11. Remove the four lower oil pan-to-trans­mission mounting bolts.

12. Remove the torque converter access plate, and the rubber plugs just below the plate.

13. Remove the two rubber plugs then the two upper pan-to-rear main seal housing bolts (M6 size).

Caution: The oil pan-to-rear main seal bolts are hard to see and can easily be missed. If they are not removed, the rear main seal housing will be severely damaged when the pan is lowered.

14. Remove the nineteen upper oil pan bolts (M8 size) around the perimeter of the pan, then carefully separate the oil pan from the engine block. Use the two indented prying points on each side of the oil pan to carefully pry the pan free of the engine block. If it still sticks, slip a putty knife between the engine block and oil pan to break the bond (but be careful not to scratch the surfaces).

Note: On 4WD models, then engine may have to be raised or lowered slightly to allow the oil pan to be removed.

Installation

15. Clean the pan (s) with solvent and remove all old sealant and gasket mate­rial from the engine block and pan mating surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone and make sure the bolt holes in the engine block are clear. Check the oil pan flange(s) for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes. If neces­sary, place the pan(s) on a wood block and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gas­ket surface.

Upper oil pan

16. Apply a 1/8-inch wide by 1/16-inch high bead of RTV sealant to the sealing surface of the pan. Install the upper pan and the bolts, then tighten the bolts finger-tight.

17. Tighten the pan-to-transmission bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica­tions.

18. Tighten the remaining bolts in a circular pattern, starting from the middle and working your way outwards, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

19. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

20. Refill the engine with oil (see Tune-up and routine maintenance). Start and run the engine until normal operat­ing temperature is reached, then check for leaks.

Lower oil pan

21. Apply a 1/8-inch wide by 1/16-inch high bead of RTV sealant to the sealing surface of the pan. Install the lower pan and the bolts.

22. Tighten the bolts in a circular pattern, starting from the middle and working your way outwards, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

23. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

24. Refill the engine with oil (see Tune-up and routine maintenance). Start and run the engine until normal operat­ing temperature is reached, then check for leaks.